Buying an Autozam AZ-1/Suzuki Cara?
Check over these things before you make the decision or at least know what you may be getting into!
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Check for leaks
Common leak areas: Cam housing gaskets, Turbo oil feed, oil pan, various coolant lines.
Open the airbox and look under the cover to see if there is oil blowby
Check for radiator cover in frunk
Check for oil burning as shown in the blue smokey exhaust.
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Ensure glass is in good condition. Especially the windshield. These aren’t cheap to come by but there is a US source now. Available in Florida: https://www.curvedglasscreations.com/ They are currently in the process of making a windshield for an owner. (Jan 2024)
Body panels can be repaired or bought. Some parts have repros and some don’t They are available on the used market but can be expensive considering you have to factor in shipping for a large item. (Molds have been made for many of the parts for new production fiberglass or carbon fiber in the UK - 2024)
Rust. Check for rust on the door frame and the undercarriage, really anywhere. Determine if its surface rust or actual rot. The sheet metal is very thin. The plastic body can hide a lot of rust. If the undercarriage is very rusty if possible check under some of the plastic fenders.
Check the mirror joint boot. This is not sold separately if replacement is needed.
Check strength of door dampers. If they are weak the door can fall on your head. New dampers are available. OEM is big $ but other alternatives available like the SGS struts.
Check the cosmetic trim around all the glass. Most are discontinued or big $ now. (Currently working on getting trims and seals remanufactured Jan 2024)
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Check under carpet for rusty floor pans.
Check for holes or damage to the dash. The cluster hood is discontinued and very expensive.
Seat bolsters are expected to be squashed and wrinkly. If not, that’s great.
Seats may be faded blue color unless a rare garaged car or reupholstered.
Check if AC works. (AC only comes through face vents) Kind of a hassle to repair. It’s an old R12 system.
Heat only blows from windshield or floor vent not face vent.
Check to see if car has the rare OEM foglight/defrost button.
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New shocks or coilovers are commonly available. Not a big deal if it’s not in ideal condition.
Swaybar bushings are still available. Not big deal if worn.
Control arms with ball joints are cheap too like $30ea. All 4 are the same. Not big deal if worn.
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Listen for odd noises.
Ensure all gears drive ok.
Check if car has the rare LSD option.
Shifter bushings can be worn and cause the gear lever to feel loose and floppy, difficult to shift into certain gears.
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Wheels are plentiful even though they are 4x114.3. Though bigger than 14” limits your tire selection greatly.
Tires can be acquired from Japan. Not cheap for the size but about what “decent tires” cost. Sometimes it may be cheaper to get them from England.
Brake pads and rotors are plentiful
Check to see if it has the rare ABS option in the frunk.
These cars are all 30+ years or older now. Lots of things can deteriorate over all this time. A well maintained example of the car may be fine as all the gaskets, belts and hoses may be in better condition but all rubber degrades. It will harden, dry rot and crack causing you all kinds of headaches until you overhaul everything. Use the information below as a general guide for what to look for when wanting to purchase one of these fantastic cars for yourself! Some are “common” issues or just cool features to look out for. If you come across a modified vehicle, you would also want to look into what kind of mods are on the vehicle to see what you’re getting. My information below doesn’t really go into any aftermarket stuff. There will be pages consisting of what aftermarket stuff is available out there coming soon. (There is currently an exhaust muffler and downpipe page)
The gallery below will provide some insight on some common things you’ll want to look for when searching for your car. (more coming as I can find photos for it but this is the most of it)
The last but thing is concerning any “special versions” aka the Mazdaspeeds and M2-1015s. Yes they are a special version but remember, they were simply a body kit installed after the car was produced and sitting around unsold and Mazda wanted to help push the sales. There are some tells that can tell you if one of them is not “genuine” but unless the original dealer paperwork was kept and still with the car, there is no way for you to tell if it is as genuine as someone that acquired all the parts later on and attached them to the car. There were special performance parts that were available but all were optional goodies an owner could buy and have installed. Two examples of a easy tell: There cannot be a 1992 Mazdaspeed since it was introduced sometime in 1993. There cannot be 92-93 M2-1015s, they were introduced in 1994. There are more but these are simple ones.